Our daughter Priya and her family had planned a family holiday in Kenya and Zanzibar last month. Her in laws, Dilip and Shrimi Sinha joined us, so eventually we were a party of 6 adults and 2 children.
We flew Qatar airways to Nairobi via Qatar. The Delhi Doha sector was a code share flight operated by Indigo along with their trademark junglee sandwiches. The flights were quite unpleasant - in the middle of the night and too short to get much sleep. Fortunately, now Air India has started a direct Delhi Nairobi flight that will make things much better. Doha airport is quite stunning - beautifully laid out with great shopping and dining options.
Day 1
We landed at Nairobi airport in the morning on time. The airport is apparently temporary and it shows! It's quite shabby and looks like a real dump. I hope they get the new airport up and running soon. We were met by very courteous drivers who drove us to the Eka hotel where we were staying. We had breakfast and as some of the rooms were ready we freshened up as well.
Then we were off - to the Giraffe Center where they have a high platform for feeding the Giraffes. They give you some pellets in a coconut shell - all very natural and eco friendly. The whole experience was and very exciting for all of us. Later we heard a talk about Giraffes and learnt how to differentiate between the various species.
We then went to a workshop where women were making beads made of volcanic material. They put up a nice 'hakuna matata' dance for us.
After that we went to a museum that had a snake park attached. The children made a bee line to see the black mambas and pythons that they draped around their necks.
The guide at the museum was outstanding. We were fascinated by glimpses of the first man on earth and how all humans developed in Africa and then moved out. We overshot the time that the museum was to close but the lady was very kind and we reluctantly left to return to the hotel.
Nairobi is a beautiful city. There is a very large slum but the more affluent areas are terrific with colonial bungalows, greenery and wide roads. Being at an elevation of around 5000 ft the weather feels like Bangalore. Cool all the year round. We had dinner at the hotel and went to sleep early exhausted after the sleepless night on the flights.
Day 2
At 8:30 next morning we were picked up for the drive to Lake Elementeita.
This is one one of the five lakes around the rift valley in Kenya - the lakes are all salt water and a haven for flamingos. The drive was very beautiful along the ridge - the scenery is reminiscent of South Indian hill stations like Ooty and Kodaikanal and the misty, cool weather adds to the feeling. The continent of Africa is being cleft into two at the rift valley that runs from north to south. Maybe in a few millennia, some new land masses may make their appearance.
The Serena Hotel at Lake Elementeita was great. Well laid out and protected by an electric fence to keep the large animals out.
The view of the lake was spectacular - full of pink flamingos covering most of the water area. They feed on algae and apparently the pink colour is dependent on the quality of their food.
There was a viewing point for the lake that had antelopes just outside. An idyllic spot! Food was great at the hotel. The only problem was that the orders were taken individually, plated and served so it did take a while. Started our journey of exploring local beers with 'Tusker' a light crisp lager with a faintly bitter aftertaste but perfectly acceptable. Next day we went for our first safari to the Lake Nakuru national park, where we saw the white rhino.
We were lucky to see a whole bunch along with numerous zebras, baboons, antelopes and birds.
The park is right next to a city and we were pleasantly surprised to see such plentiful wildlife so close to an urban area.
Back to the hotel and time for some more beer exploration. This time we tried Balozi that did not turn out quite so nice. An early night so we could leave for the Masai Mara next morning.
Day 3
The drive to the Masai Mara was quite beautiful as it followed the rift valley for some of the time. We then turned off into an unpaved road and while the Land Cruisers made good time it was a bumpy ride and we were quite worn out by the time we reached our camp. We crossed the famous Mara river on the way.
The camp was named Kichwa Tembo near what is called the Mara Triangle. This is a spectacular property. The rooms were to top of stilts around 10 - 12 feet high. These were tents that could be unzipped to let in light and air. We were advised to keep the netting closed at all times as the monkeys were quite aggressive.
The main areas of the resort opened out towards the open grassland of the Mara and we could often see elephants and antelope vending their way across. There was an electric fence in a deep ditch to keep the larger animals out.
But the resort had it's resident wart hogs (pumbas) that wandered around at will. The food at the resort was excellent with alcohol also included in the price. There was a great chef in charge at the live counter. He was a real artist and kept up an interesting conversation while he prepared eggs for breakfast or grills for lunch and dinner. Amazing variety and quality of fresh produce in the middle of nowhere!
Day 4 and 5
These were spent in game drives around the Mara triangle. We went up to the Tanzania border with the endless Serengeti plain stretching far towards the South.
We crossed and re-crossed the Mara river but the actual river crossing of the wildebeest herds was still to come.
The river is rather narrow and we saw a herd of hippos wallowing on one side with a huge crocodile sunning himself on our side.
Lions in plenty. A full pride as well as a fellowship of males gorging on a buffalo that they had killed. The next day the lions were gone but the hyenas and vultures were picking the bones clean.
We saw many cheetahs including three that failed to hunt down a zebra who stood his ground and shooed them off. An ostrich exploring something on the ground.
Then a leopard loping around in the distance oblivious of the prey all around. Herds of Zebras and Antelopes were everywhere. Buffalos demonstrating the democratic manner in which they move - almost like an election to decide which direction they will take next. Elephants in plenty and some really beautiful pictures as a result.
We saw the big five on this trip - Lions, Leopards, Elephants, Buffalo and Rhino.
The Mara is stunningly beautiful especially at dawn and sunset with the endless grass stretching for miles and the sky awash with colour. There are few trees but the predators still manage to slink up to the their prey. The predators hunt to feed themselves, not for enjoyment. Africa is like a drug. Once you've tasted it you WILL come back. This time with a better camera!
India woke up to the depredations of hunters and the spread of population a little late but I think we have a well developed sense of ecological preservation now. Africa has far more animals. Long may their wilderness last.
Day 6
A reluctant good bye to the Masai Mara and drive back to Nairobi. We reached at lunch and checked in to the Tamarind Tree Hotel. This is conveniently located close to the Wilson airport from where we were to take a flight next day to Zanzibar, The evening was spent at a mall looking for Kenya souvenirs and a good dinner - mix of Indian and Chinese food.
Day 7
After a little confusing security and immigration procedures at the small Wilson airport in Nairobi we boarded a turbo prop plane for Zanzibar.
Zanzibar is one of those places you read about in stories from the Arabian nights. And here we are! After a scenic flight from Nairobi flying close to the cloud covered summit of Mt Kilimanjaro we landed at a modern airport. Our resort was on the other side of the island so we drove for an hour and a half to get there. Incredible white sand beach stretching for miles.
Beautiful resort, the Breezes Beach club on the Indian Ocean side. Went for a morning walk when the tide was out and the sky was awash with colours. Total relaxation after a few strenuous days of safari.
Day 8
Today we drove to Mnemba beach at the northern end of Zanzibar. A boat ride on a heaving sea was kinda ok but the sight of the dolphins was exciting!
Hakuna Matata! The best philosophy of life.
Day 9
The last day in Zanzibar was very interesting. We went to Prison Island first.
It now has a tortoise sanctuary with the oldest resident being 196 years old! Munching away on lettuce and green leaves these ancient specimens have droopy eyes and thick leathery shells.
There were quite a few peacocks strutting around as well.
A short boat ride away from the town. Then Freddie Mercury's house where he was born.
Some spice shopping and then a good lunch at the Africa house restaurant overlooking the sea.
Stone Town needed more time for exploration, maybe stay there for a day.
Then a long flight(s) back to Delhi and some much needed sleep.
Very enjoyable family holiday. Many thanks to Priya Bhatnagar Sinha and Abhinav Sinha for planning the whole thing and to Dilip Sinha and Shrimi Sinha for the great company! More African safaris coming up!
Photo Credits: Abhinav Sinha, Priya Sinha, Gayatri Sinha, Nayantara Sinha, Devi Muthu Bhatnagar, Dilip Sinha and Divyaroop Bhatnagar
